The Invisible Path to Success
After a long and successful run, is rimless finally on the way out? Optical retailers say, "No way!"
By Erinn Morgan

A glittery rimless look by Chanel for Luxottica. Shown: Style CH 4105B

Rimless eyewear is still rolling. Coming into prominence in the last few years, this drill-mounted frame style continues today with momentum. "I love them--we sell a ton of rimless," says Norman Childs, owner of Eyetique, which has three locations in the Pittsburgh area. "We are also doing our own drilling in-house."

What is keeping rimless on top? "It is still very popular because it is an option that is lightweight and comfortable," says Bernice Olivetti, optician and frame buyer at Leonard Opticians in New York City. "We have a lot of people who don't want to switch because of the comfort."

This trend has become so important that its status has been elevated to a staple in the dispensary. Thus, many believe that even once the rimless rage slows, these three-piece mounts will remain important for those customers who desire the benefits that rimless offers. "When you have a technology that is so lightweight, you have people who want it for the practicality," says Scott Mischel, owner of Marc Michel Eyewear Studio in Pacific Palisades, Calif.

ALL THE RAGE

The reasons for rimless' success go beyond comfort. "Fashion drives everything and rimless is fashion," says Childs. Magazine spreads and style reports have indeed helped rimless get its stronghold.

Even the lens shapes have changed with the styles to help keep three-piece mounts trendy. "Rimless eyewear has been popular for quite a while now," says Marie Defreitas, optician at 20/20 Optical in Old Greenwich, Conn. "It is still peaking. The lens style did get bigger, and that kept it fresh."

In addition, rimless frames offer many features which tempt customers. "We talk about the features and benefits as selling points. It is lightweight and invisible on the face," says Defreitas. "We also point out they can change the shape of the lens from year to year while keeping the same frame."

The minimal look of rimless is a feature that is desirable to many, say dispensers. In keeping with this "invisible" look, customers tend to purchase conservative frame colors in metals and neutral shades.

"The colors in rimless are pretty conservative," says Defreitas. "Especially in sunglasses, it is not wild colors. We sell more navy, gold, silver, and a camel color."

The rimless trend has also helped sunglass sales. "We sell a lot of plano sunwear in rimless as well," says Childs. "We are growing with sunwear every year. The market is so big. Why give it away?"

In sunwear as well as ophthalmic eyewear, rimless is holding on strong. Shown left, Revolution style RA114 on her and style RA107 on him. Above: Silhouette's model 1960 features hingeless styling

BENEFITS TO THE DISPENSER

Rimless eyewear also profits the ECP in many ways. On a basic level, it is a long-lasting trend with enough appeal to increase eyewear sales.

Also, some dispensers boost their bottom line by drilling in-house. "We have control of drilling and don't have to send it back to a lab to redo the drill holes," says Childs. "We charge an additional fee for drilling. It is bumping up the sale and giving us an edge."

 as the focus, many customers are more willing to invest in this part of their eyeglasses.

As a result, their polycarbonate lens sales are on the rise. "We use poly for all three-piece mounts because of the safety factor and the fact that it's easier to drill without cracking the lens," says Olivetti.

It has also opened the door for higher-end lens materials, such as Trivex. "It's made in a way that's real tough to break that lens. If people want plastic, we will do that as well. But we really push the poly and Trivex," says Childs.

Sales of lens add-ons, such as AR, have also risen. "We do AR on virtually all rimless orders. But AR sales have always been big for us, and I rarely see an invoice go through without an AR on it," says Childs, who estimates his overall AR lens business at about 90 percent.

"We also do a lot of packaging with lenses, AR, UV, and hard coats," says Childs. "That really helps make the sale. Instead of selling them a naked lens, you are doubling the sale."

A jungle of rimless. Shown: The Spectral Eyes rimless display from Silver Dollar Optical

Rimless eyewear also facilitates the sale of lens tints and mirror coatings. "People are asking for tints and mirroring," says Mischel. "Specialty tints are popular, like a light rose with flash mirror for women. The standard sun tints are also important."

Mischel also notes that polycarbonate is a challenge as far as tinting. "You have to be careful not to overextend in a dark tint in poly."

Still, he says, most of his clients opt for clear lenses with AR for their regular glasses.

"Most of our three-piece mount Rxs are clear," adds Defreitas. "Some people want a gradient tint in a color." At 20/20 Optical, polarization is also offered to every customer on rimless sunwear.

Rimless eyewear can be a strong and long-lasting part of dispensers' business, if it is positioned and presented properly. Lenses and add-ons can also greatly improve the bottom line. "We have greatly expanded our rimless stock in the last four to five years," says Childs. "The trend is not going the other way."

Hinge designs can provide extra style to a conservative rimless frame. Shown: Marchon Airlock's 720 Series, left, and 760 Series	One option from the palette of the IO collection by Swissflex for Italee Optics
Cazal style 795 from Ultra Palm Optical/Eastern States Eyewear.	While many three-piece mounts are clear on the face, a splash of color can be a fun touch. Shown: Try style Pieghevole for Alison S.p.A.